Wallcover from Classic Grey Old Wood

Our Classic Grey reclaimed wood, like our sun-burned boards, was installed outside on old stables, houses and barns. The difference: the wood was exposed to the “weather side”. Wind, rain, snow and ice have ensured that the surface has acquired a beautiful, grey color.

We ship across the EU and hire the most cost-effective transport company! (Forwarding agents, parcel services, etc.). Please note that if a delivery is made by a forwarding agent, access for a semi-trailer must be possible in order to be able to deliver your reclaimed wood

With the special “kiln-dried” version, the waste wood is “dried” for several days in a drying chamber at over 56° C, thus preventing insecticide infestation in the delivery condition. It is an environmentally friendly form of pest control. 

The Official Plant Protection Service of Austria, regional service of Upper Austria confirms that we are officialy registered under the registration number NO. AT-08403 and autids through regular inspections the verfification compliance with ISPM No. 15 measures. 

However, we ask for your understanding that after this point in time, a possible new infestation is beyond our control and therefore cannot be ruled out.We therefore recommend preventive treatment against renewed worm infestation.

In the case of untrimmed boards the natural/original edges are retained.

Our old-wood wall covers are not treated and can be installed as supplied by us. The color of the surface no longer changes inside.

It may only darken a little if exposed to direct and permanent sunlight.

Genrerally old wood behaves like “new” wood. If old wood is mounted on a south-facing facade, it darkens over time and becomes brown. Reclaimed wood on the north side (weather side) is more exposed to wind, rain, snow and ice and is therefore given a nice, grey color.

If facades are adequately roofed, the colors of the surfaces are largely retained.

Other than tiles, wood can absorb and release moisture again. That leads to a very well indoor climate!

Only direct contact with water, at least over a longer period of time, should be avoided. A little splashing water every now and then is no problem at all. Ventilation is important, but this also applies to tiled walls, otherwise there is a risk of mold.

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

Step 1: The substructure – back battens

At the beginning, a wooden substructure is attached to the wall.

The boards will be attached to this later.

Wooden slats with a thickness of 10x35mm to 50x80mm (roof battens) are used.

The thicker the battens, the more space you have for cables or transformers.

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

The alignment:

If you have decided on horizontal installation, the battens must be dowelled vertically on the wall. In the case of vertical alignment, the battens must be mounted horizontally.

Important: the battens must run at a 90 degree angle to the wall cladding!

Counter battens?

A counter battens is a second batten construction which is screwed onto the already attached first horizontal substructure (offset by 90 degrees).

On the one hand, this gives you more space between the wall and cladding and, on the other hand, the rear ventilation is better.

Batten spacing:

We recommend a maximum of 50cm from bar to bar.

Also remember to keep the selected distance exactly.

This is very important when fixing the boards later.

Step 2: wall cladding:

After the substructure has been successfully installed, the wall cladding can be applied.

Where to start

Start laying horizontally on the ceiling or on the floor.

In the case of vertical laying, the first board is attached in the corner.

How to attach

In principle, option 1 described below is sufficient.

Option 2 + 3 have the advantage that no nails or screw heads can be seen even on closer inspection.

Option 1: wire pins

Wire nails are nails with a small / upset head.

In addition, wire pins can be nailed into the boards from the front and almost disappear into the board.

Option 2: nail / screw at an angle

If the visual requirement is higher and if you do not want to see a nail head on closer inspection, boards are screwed diagonally through the tongue and groove with the battens.

Boards without tongue and groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.

Option 3: Profile board claws (only with tongue and groove)

With profile board claws, the boards are not screwed directly, but the claws.

The boards are “hooked” into the claws. The claw surrounds the rear groove cheek and holds the board without damaging it.

Start and end claws are used for the first and last board.

Profile board claws are available in hardware stores.