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TYPE H2 and H2-R

Hand-hewn reclaimed boards, trimmed

Our hand-hewn reclaimed boards – type H2 – are trimmed on both sides and planed to a uniform thickness. This makes it easy to assemble your individual wall panelling.

If rustic and wild or classical handhewn – it’s your decision: just choose between our types H2 (classic) and H2-R (rustic) at the form below!

The perfect ending of your handhewn wall can be done with our EndBeam’s.

A ready-to-mount wallcover from handhewn boards can be found in our Online-ShopBausatz „Barnwood Rustic”

HANDHEWN BOARDS – H2:

H2 is coming with a smooth, beautiful surface. We draw special attention to a sound surface and structure.

Lamp From Handhewn Boards
Lamp From Handhewn Boards
Handhewn Boards
Wallpanels Handhewn Boards
Wallpanels Handhewn Reclaimed Wood
Berg-Restaurant Kasermandl Holz
Gastrokönig Innen Aus Holz
Handhewn Boards
Wandverkleidung Und Deckenlampe Aus Handgehacktem Altholz

Handhewn Boards, rustic  – H2-R:

The ‘R’ in H2-R stands for a wild and rustical structure with cracks and holes. With H2-R you get a surface with a real character.

Handgehackte Wandverkleidung Und Handgehackte EndBeams In Einem Raum
Handgehackte Wandverkleidung Und Handgehackte EndBeams In Einem Raum
Wallpanel From Reclaimed Wood
Wandverkleidung Mit Abschlussbalken Aus Altholz
Wandverkleidung Mit Abschlussbalken Aus Altholz
Altholz Wandervkleidung Handgehackt
Altholz Bretter
Wallpanel Handhewn
Wandverkleidung Aus Handgehacktem Rustikalen Altholz
The antique boards with original chopped surface are cut or sawn from solid beams or block walls.
The original surface shows the unique traces of the ax, with which until a 100 years ago the beams were carved from tree trunks. Traces such as nail holes, cracks and discolorations are well wanted and underline the individual look.

GET YOUR INDIVIDUAL OFFER HERE

  • Type of wood:        spruce / fir / pine
  • Colours:                  mixed shades
  • Thickness:              planed to approx. 30mm
  • Widths:                   mixed from 10cm
  • Lengths:                 1.5 - 4.5m
  • Surface:                  brushed
  • Treatment:             kiln dried
  • Trimmed (edges of the boards were separated)
  • Optional:                length sorting or cut to fit

Of course – no matter if you run a company or if you are a private person, anyone can buy our products.

We always produce order to order. After your payment has been received, we will start producing your order. In this way we can guarantee that we always deliver exactly what you need for your project. You will receive the planned delivery time in your offer or in your order confirmation.

Thats excactely right! Sunburnt Boards, for example are sometimes really old (50-150 years), sometimes it only takes 20-40 years until they are weathered/sunburnt enough.

Handhewn wood – on the other hand side – can’t be any younger than approx. 100 years, since it‘s typical surface was done by hand & axe, when machines where not available.

Original hand-chopped wood (beams and hand-chopped boards) come from the time when there were no machine saws (sawmills / frame saws …). The round tree trunks were chopped into lumber by hand and ax into the square shape. That was the case until about 100 years ago, sooner or later depending on the region.

We ship across the EU and hire the most cost-effective transport company! (Forwarding agents, parcel services, etc.). Please note that if a delivery is made by a forwarding agent, access for a semi-trailer must be possible in order to be able to deliver your reclaimed wood

With the special “kiln-dried” version, the waste wood is “dried” for several days in a drying chamber at over 60 ° C, thus preventing insecticide infestation in the delivery condition. It is an environmentally friendly form of pest control.

However, we ask for your understanding that after this point in time, a possible new infestation is beyond our control and therefore cannot be ruled out.We therefore recommend preventive treatment against renewed worm infestation.

The surface of the old wood is processed with a rotating brush head. As a result, soft wooden parts are released from the surface, the hard components remain and define a structured surface.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other than tiles, wood can absorb and release moisture again. That leads to a very well indoor climate!

Only direct contact with water, at least over a longer period of time, should be avoided. A little splashing water every now and then is no problem at all. Ventilation is important, but this also applies to tiled walls, otherwise there is a risk of mold.

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

Step 1: The substructure – back battens

At the beginning, a wooden substructure is attached to the wall.

The boards will be attached to this later.

Wooden slats with a thickness of 10x35mm to 50x80mm (roof battens) are used.

 

The thicker the battens, the more space you have for cables or transformers.

 

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

 

The alignment:

If you have decided on horizontal installation, the battens must be dowelled vertically on the wall. In the case of vertical alignment, the battens must be mounted horizontally.

Important: the battens must run at a 90 degree angle to the wall cladding!

 

Counter battens?

A counter battens is a second batten construction which is screwed onto the already attached first horizontal substructure (offset by 90 degrees).

 

On the one hand, this gives you more space between the wall and cladding and, on the other hand, the rear ventilation is better.

Batten spacing:

We recommend a maximum of 50cm from bar to bar.

Also remember to keep the selected distance exactly.

This is very important when fixing the boards later.

Step 2: wall cladding:

After the substructure has been successfully installed, the wall cladding can be applied.

Where to start

Start laying horizontally on the ceiling or on the floor.

In the case of vertical laying, the first board is attached in the corner.

How to attach

In principle, option 1 described below is sufficient.

Option 2 + 3 have the advantage that no nails or screw heads can be seen even on closer inspection.

Option 1: wire pins

Wire nails are nails with a small / upset head.

In addition, wire pins can be nailed into the boards from the front and almost disappear into the board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Option 2: nail / screw at an angle

If the visual requirement is higher and if you do not want to see a nail head on closer inspection, boards are screwed diagonally through the tongue and groove with the battens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boards without tongue and groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.

Option 3: Profile board claws (only with tongue and groove)

With profile board claws, the boards are not screwed directly, but the claws.

The boards are “hooked” into the claws. The claw surrounds the rear groove cheek and holds the board without damaging it.

Start and end claws are used for the first and last board.

Profile board claws are available in hardware stores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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