skip to Main Content

Type S2, S3 and S5

Sunburnt reclaimed wood – our most wanted!

Our sunburnt reclaimed wood is the perfect wall cover to make your home warm and cosy. The boards are available either unplaned and not trimmed (original edges) – Type S2, planed and trimmed – Type S5 or planed and with Tongue&Groove – Type S3

Type S2: not trimmed (original edges) and unplaned (different thicknesses)

Type S5: planed edges, backside planed (uniform thickness, 20mm)

Type S3: Tonge&Groove, backside planed (uniform thickness, 20mm)

Reclaimed boards with a grey surface can be found here.

Sunburnt boards
Sunburnt boards
Sunburnt boards wallpanel
Sunburnt boards wallpanel
Wallpanels reclaimed wood
Sunburnt wallpanels in sleeping room
House with reclaimed wood
Sunburnt boards tongue and groove
Sunburnt boards
Sunburnt boards
Sunburnt boards
Sunburnt boards S2

Sunburnt wood is the most popular reclaimed wood surface!

Sunburnt boards originally come from old stables, farmhouses and barns. Depending on the orientation of the building towards the sun or weather side, different colorations of light to dark brown have developed on the surface over time. This structure is absolutely unique and not mechanically reproducible!

GET YOU INDIVIDUAL OFFER HERE

  • Type of wood: spruce / fir / pine
  • Colours: mixed shades of brown
  • Widths: mixed Lengths: 1.5 – 4.0m
  • Surface: brushed
  • Treatment: kiln dried 
  • Natural edges (Type S2), trimmed edges (Type S5) or Tongue&Groove (Type S3)
  • Optional: fixed widths for push-to-push installation (Type S5 and S3 only)
  • Optional: cut to fit (Type S5 and S3 only)

Of course – no matter if you run a company or if you are a private person, anyone can buy our products.

We always produce order to order. After your payment has been received, we will start producing your order. In this way we can guarantee that we always deliver exactly what you need for your project. You will receive the planned delivery time in your offer or in your order confirmation.

Thats excactely right! Sunburnt Boards, for example are sometimes really old (50-150 years), sometimes it only takes 20-40 years until they are weathered/sunburnt enough.

Handhewn wood – on the other hand side – can’t be any younger than approx. 100 years, since it‘s typical surface was done by hand & axe, when machines where not available.

Originally, the boards were built on old stables, farmhouses and barns. Depending on the orientation of the building towards the sun or the weather, different colors from light to dark brown developed on the surface over time. For this reason we cannot guarantee a specific color sorting.

We ship across the EU and hire the most cost-effective transport company! (Forwarding agents, parcel services, etc.). Please note that if a delivery is made by a forwarding agent, access for a semi-trailer must be possible in order to be able to deliver your reclaimed wood

With the special “kiln-dried” version, the waste wood is “dried” for several days in a drying chamber at over 60 ° C, thus preventing insecticide infestation in the delivery condition. It is an environmentally friendly form of pest control.

However, we ask for your understanding that after this point in time, a possible new infestation is beyond our control and therefore cannot be ruled out.We therefore recommend preventive treatment against renewed worm infestation.

In the case of untrimmed boards the natural/original edges are retained.

Our old-wood wall covers are not treated and can be installed as supplied by us. The color of the surface no longer changes inside.

It may only darken a little if exposed to direct and permanent sunlight.

Genrerally old wood behaves like “new” wood. If old wood is mounted on a south-facing facade, it darkens over time and becomes brown. Reclaimed wood on the north side (weather side) is more exposed to wind, rain, snow and ice and is therefore given a nice, grey color.

If facades are adequately roofed, the colors of the surfaces are largely retained.

Other than tiles, wood can absorb and release moisture again. That leads to a very well indoor climate!

Only direct contact with water, at least over a longer period of time, should be avoided. A little splashing water every now and then is no problem at all. Ventilation is important, but this also applies to tiled walls, otherwise there is a risk of mold.

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

Step 1: The substructure – back battens

At the beginning, a wooden substructure is attached to the wall.

The boards will be attached to this later.

Wooden slats with a thickness of 10x35mm to 50x80mm (roof battens) are used.

 

The thicker the battens, the more space you have for cables or transformers.

 

Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!

This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).

 

The alignment:

If you have decided on horizontal installation, the battens must be dowelled vertically on the wall. In the case of vertical alignment, the battens must be mounted horizontally.

Important: the battens must run at a 90 degree angle to the wall cladding!

 

Counter battens?

A counter battens is a second batten construction which is screwed onto the already attached first horizontal substructure (offset by 90 degrees).

 

On the one hand, this gives you more space between the wall and cladding and, on the other hand, the rear ventilation is better.

Batten spacing:

We recommend a maximum of 50cm from bar to bar.

Also remember to keep the selected distance exactly.

This is very important when fixing the boards later.

Step 2: wall cladding:

After the substructure has been successfully installed, the wall cladding can be applied.

Where to start

Start laying horizontally on the ceiling or on the floor.

In the case of vertical laying, the first board is attached in the corner.

How to attach

In principle, option 1 described below is sufficient.

Option 2 + 3 have the advantage that no nails or screw heads can be seen even on closer inspection.

Option 1: wire pins

Wire nails are nails with a small / upset head.

In addition, wire pins can be nailed into the boards from the front and almost disappear into the board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Option 2: nail / screw at an angle

If the visual requirement is higher and if you do not want to see a nail head on closer inspection, boards are screwed diagonally through the tongue and groove with the battens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boards without tongue and groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.

Option 3: Profile board claws (only with tongue and groove)

With profile board claws, the boards are not screwed directly, but the claws.

The boards are “hooked” into the claws. The claw surrounds the rear groove cheek and holds the board without damaging it.

Start and end claws are used for the first and last board.

Profile board claws are available in hardware stores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back To Top