Step 1: The substructure – back battens
At the beginning, a wooden substructure is attached to the wall.
The boards will be attached to this later.
Wooden slats with a thickness of 10x35mm to 50x80mm (roof battens) are used.
The thicker the battens, the more space you have for cables or transformers.
Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!
This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).
If you have decided on horizontal installation, the battens must be dowelled vertically on the wall. In the case of vertical alignment, the battens must be mounted horizontally.
Important: the battens must run at a 90 degree angle to the wall cladding!
A counter battens is a second batten construction which is screwed onto the already attached first horizontal substructure (offset by 90 degrees).
On the one hand, this gives you more space between the wall and cladding and, on the other hand, the rear ventilation is better.
We recommend a maximum of 50cm from bar to bar.
Also remember to keep the selected distance exactly.
This is very important when fixing the boards later.
Step 2: wall cladding:
After the substructure has been successfully installed, the wall cladding can be applied.
Where to start
Start laying horizontally on the ceiling or on the floor.
In the case of vertical laying, the first board is attached in the corner.
How to attach
In principle, option 1 described below is sufficient.
Option 2 + 3 have the advantage that no nails or screw heads can be seen even on closer inspection.
Option 1: wire pins
Wire nails are nails with a small / upset head.
In addition, wire pins can be nailed into the boards from the front and almost disappear into the board.
Option 2: nail / screw at an angle
If the visual requirement is higher and if you do not want to see a nail head on closer inspection, boards are screwed diagonally through the tongue and groove with the battens.
Boards without tongue and groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.
Option 3: Profile board claws (only with tongue and groove)
With profile board claws, the boards are not screwed directly, but the claws.
The boards are “hooked” into the claws. The claw surrounds the rear groove cheek and holds the board without damaging it.
Start and end claws are used for the first and last board.
Profile board claws are available in hardware stores.