Knotbarn is wild, eXtra-rustic and super-cosy.
What’s so special about Knobarn? With it’s protruding branches and unevennesses you’ll have a unique surface , especially when exposed to light. Knotbarn is massive boards, available in mixed lenghts, backside planed to 30mm and trimmed edges.
This Wallpanel is made from old, original flooring. It was perpetraded by horses with heavy waggons, loaded with hay. The weight of horse and waggon formed this special and unique surface of the boards. Maschines could never reconstruct this structure and form!
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- Type of wood: spruce / fir / pine
- Colours: mixed shades
- Thickness: planed to approx. 30mm
- Widths: mixed from 10cm
- Lengths: 1.5 - 4.5m
- Surface: brushed
- Treatment: kiln dried
- trimmed edges
- Optional: length sorting or cut to fit
Of course – no matter if you run a company or if you are a private person, anyone can buy our products.
We always produce order to order. After your payment has been received, we will start producing your order. In this way we can guarantee that we always deliver exactly what you need for your project. You will receive the planned delivery time in your offer or in your order confirmation.
When is ‚oldwood‘ considerd to be ‚old wood‘? How old are they really? How relevant is the actual age or does it depend on how wasted the surface is?
Thats excactely right! Sunburnt Boards, for example are sometimes really old (50-150 years), sometimes it only takes 20-40 years until they are weathered/sunburnt enough.
Handhewn wood – on the other hand side – can’t be any younger than approx. 100 years, since it‘s typical surface was done by hand & axe, when machines where not available.
With the special “kiln-dried” version, the waste wood is “dried” for several days in a drying chamber at over 60 ° C, thus preventing insecticide infestation in the delivery condition. It is an environmentally friendly form of pest control.
However, we ask for your understanding that after this point in time, a possible new infestation is beyond our control and therefore cannot be ruled out.We therefore recommend preventive treatment against renewed worm infestation.
In the case of untrimmed boards the natural/original edges are retained.
Genrerally old wood behaves like “new” wood. If old wood is mounted on a south-facing facade, it darkens over time and becomes brown. Reclaimed wood on the north side (weather side) is more exposed to wind, rain, snow and ice and is therefore given a nice, grey color.
If facades are adequately roofed, the colors of the surfaces are largely retained.
Step 1: The substructure – back battens
At the beginning, a wooden substructure is attached to the wall.
The boards will be attached to this later.
Wooden slats with a thickness of 10x35mm to 50x80mm (roof battens) are used.
The thicker the battens, the more space you have for cables or transformers.
Make sure that the substructure has adequate ventilation; this is particularly important in damp rooms, such as B. in bathrooms, urgently needed!
This is guaranteed by vertical battens and without a lower or upper end (when the old wood boards are laid horizontally).
If you have decided on horizontal installation, the battens must be dowelled vertically on the wall. In the case of vertical alignment, the battens must be mounted horizontally.
Important: the battens must run at a 90 degree angle to the wall cladding!
A counter battens is a second batten construction which is screwed onto the already attached first horizontal substructure (offset by 90 degrees).
On the one hand, this gives you more space between the wall and cladding and, on the other hand, the rear ventilation is better.
We recommend a maximum of 50cm from bar to bar.
Also remember to keep the selected distance exactly.
This is very important when fixing the boards later.
Step 2: wall cladding:
After the substructure has been successfully installed, the wall cladding can be applied.
Where to start
Start laying horizontally on the ceiling or on the floor.
In the case of vertical laying, the first board is attached in the corner.
How to attach
In principle, option 1 described below is sufficient.
Option 2 + 3 have the advantage that no nails or screw heads can be seen even on closer inspection.
Option 1: wire pins
Wire nails are nails with a small / upset head.
In addition, wire pins can be nailed into the boards from the front and almost disappear into the board.
Option 2: nail / screw at an angle
If the visual requirement is higher and if you do not want to see a nail head on closer inspection, boards are screwed diagonally through the tongue and groove with the battens.
Boards without tongue and groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.
Option 3: Profile board claws (only with tongue and groove)
With profile board claws, the boards are not screwed directly, but the claws.
The boards are “hooked” into the claws. The claw surrounds the rear groove cheek and holds the board without damaging it.
Start and end claws are used for the first and last board.
Profile board claws are available in hardware stores.