Frequently Asked Questions about Reclaimed Wood from Brenners Altholz

The boards originally came from old stables, farmhouses and barns. Depending on the building’s orientation to the sun or weather side, different hues from light to dark brown developed on the surface over time.

For this reason, we cannot guarantee a specific colour sorting.

With the “kiln‑dried” (KD) process, reclaimed wood is dried in a kiln at over 56°C for several days; this eliminates insect infestation at the time of delivery. It is an environmentally friendly form of pest control.

The Austrian Plant Protection Service in Upper Austria confirms that, under registration number AT-08403, we are listed in the official register and regularly inspected for compliance with ISPM No. 15.

Please understand that any subsequent infestation after this point is outside our control and therefore cannot be ruled out.
We therefore recommend preventive treatment against renewed infestation.

With the tongue‑and‑groove joint, both boards have a groove along the margins into which a so‑called tongue is inserted.
This makes installation as simple as possible.

The surface of the reclaimed wood is worked with a rotating brushing head.
Softer wood fibres are removed from the surface; the harder fibres remain and define a textured surface.

Reclaimed‑wood beams were originally installed in agricultural and residential buildings. Mortise holes and notches were used to join beams without metal. Beams without notches are rarer and must be selected with care. Therefore the option “without mortise holes and notches” comes with a surcharge.

More on notches and mortise holes here.

Measure the wall or room/floor to be clad.
For example, the wall is 3 m wide (a) and 2 m high (b). Multiply 3 m (a) × 2 m (b) = 6 m²
Keep in mind that around 10% off‑cut (≈0.6 m²) is usually needed = total 6.6 m²

Here is a little more information.

Step 1: Substructure – battens

First, fix a timber substructure to the wall.
The boards will later be fixed to this.

Use battens with thicknesses from 10×35 mm to 50×80 mm (roof battens).

The thicker the battens, the more space there is for cables or transformers.

Ensure adequate rear ventilation of the substructure, especially in wet rooms such as bathrooms!
With vertical battens and without a bottom/top closure (when boards are laid horizontally) this is ensured.
 

Orientation:

If you choose a horizontal installation, fix the battens vertically to the wall.
For vertical cladding, mount the battens horizontally.
Important: The battens must run at a 90‑degree angle to the direction of the cladding!

Counter‑battens?
A counter‑batten is a second batten layer screwed onto the first (rotated 90 degrees).
This creates more space between wall and cladding and also improves rear ventilation. 
 

Batting spacing:

We recommend a maximum of 50 cm from batten to batten.
Keep the chosen spacing consistent.
This is very important for fixing the boards later. 
 

Step 2: Wall cladding: 

After the substructure has been mounted, the wall cladding can be installed. 
 

Where to start?

For horizontal cladding, start at the ceiling or the floor.
For vertical cladding, fix the first board in the corner. 
 

How to fix?

Basically, the method described in Variant 1 is sufficient.
Variants 2 and 3 have the advantage that no nail or screw heads are visible, even on close inspection. 

Variant 1: Wire nails

Wire nails are nails with a small/flattened head.
They can be nailed from the front into the boards and virtually disappear in the wood.


Variant 2: Nailing/screwing at an angle

If you want a cleaner look with no visible nail heads, screw the boards through the tongue and groove into the battens at an angle.



Boards without tongue & groove (trimmed) are also nailed or screwed to the battens at an angle.

Variant 3: Panel board clips (only for tongue & groove)

With panel board clips you do not screw the boards directly, but the clips themselves.

The boards are “hooked” into the clips. The clip grips the rear lip of the groove and holds the board without damaging it.
For the very first and last board, use starting and ending clips.

Panel board clips are available at DIY stores.

You can also find the detailed instructions for our finished wall cladding here.

Old wood can—and often is—used outdoors, e.g. as a façade, and fundamentally behaves like new wood.
To ensure the wood dries well after rain, we strongly recommend mounting it on a batten substructure that provides rear ventilation.
Only direct contact with water over a prolonged period should be avoided.

Old wood mounted on a south‑facing façade will darken somewhat over time and become browner. On the north (weather) side the wood is more exposed to the elements and the surface becomes slightly grey. If façades are roofed/covered, the look remains largely unchanged.

Old wood can—and is—used in wet rooms such as bathrooms.
It requires a batten substructure that provides rear ventilation for the wall cladding.
Old wood absorbs moisture and releases it later, which also promotes a pleasant indoor climate.
Only direct contact with water over a prolonged period should be avoided.
Occasional splashing water is absolutely no problem with rear ventilation. 

If you, as an entrepreneur, do business with companies in other EU countries, you need to use the so‑called “VAT identification number” (VAT ID). Each VAT ID consists of a two‑letter country code and two to twelve further characters, which may include letters depending on the EU state (e.g. Ireland, Netherlands, Spain).

The Austrian VAT ID always begins with the country code AT, contains a “U” in the first position and then eight digits (e.g. ATU12345678). See also: https://www.bmf.gv.at/themen/steuern/fuer-unternehmen/umsatzsteuer.html